Comme Des Garcons
Sunday, April 22nd, 2007Commes Des Garcons is a current obssession.
I don’t really know what propelled me to write these things down. I suppose a part of myself will always want to keep a record of the things I feel passionate about. Keeping track of obssessions (and elucidating them online for the entire world to appreciate) sounds suspiciously like another platform for egocentricsm. In a sense, I am no longer reflecting on the artistic production of other people. I’m actually writing about the things that give me the most pleasure: symbols I have taken into my being, warped and modifid into an extension of myself. Anyways, personal neurosis aside, here is an account of things that help to define my current conscious experience:
Rei Kawabuko of Commes de Garcons
A rebel and an eccentic, Rei Kawabuko is an eigma in modern fashion: she never discloses the intentions behind her designs but allows her work to speak for itself. She revolutionized fashion in the eighties when her scary, assymetrical black clothing that was the complete antithesis to the frivolous, sequined couture of that era. Kawabuko is also reclusive and shies away from publicity. Her interviews often leave admirers and critics with more question than answers. But hers is a unique achievement: she has managed to create a company that has made millions, selling highly conceptual pieces of clothing that critics warned her no one would wear. Kawabuko is above trends and the fickle capers of the fashion public. On the downside, she has been accused of being polemic (accusations range from anti- Semitism to being reticent to generate publicity). But Kawabuko remains unperturbed. She is the founder and head designer of Comme des Garcons (which means ‘one of the boys’ in French). Her clothes are highly conceptual (othes say impractical) pieces of avante garde art: cloth sculptures you can wear. She has a fondness for drab colors like monochrome black, white and grey. Her niche market unsuprisingly is other like minded ceative types: men and women who work in architecture and design.
If I had the money, I’d wear Commes de Gracons too.
I remember when I was living in Kuala Lumpur, a progressive men’s boutique called ‘Philosophy’ used to stock samples of her designs. One particular long sleeved shirt caught my eye: a black number with slashes of silver kimono patterns sliced into the sides. It was a highly unusual shirt, seemingly designed to make the wearer look unattractive or even mentally unstable but I feel in love with it. Unfortunatelty, I did not fall in love wit the the price: it was about 1000 ringgit, roughly 10,000 pesos in pre-2000. Even when they went on sale, I still could not afford the buy that shirt (which was now retailing for 800 ringgit or 8000 pesos). Nevertheless, I still ponder that shirt: it haunts my dreams. I hope to someday buy that shirt or something like it from Commes de Gracons. I am smitten and I just can’t help it.
PS: Did you know that early Comme des Garcons designs were so strangely unfamiliar that they came with instructions showing the proper way to wear them? Oh, and one of my favorite designs comes from a cicra 1996 collection: models were sent down the catwalk wearing white or grey shrouds with stuffing added to strategic areas, making the wearers look like sub humans with lumps protruding from various pats of their anatomy. Those designs drew a fair amount of praise and ridicule. But it just goes to show that no one can pull a stunt like that save Rei Kawabuko.